The heart of Waitsfield must be its Bridge Street. Just off Route 100 on one end and the 1835 covered bridge at the other end, Bridge Street has finally come into its own as “the” place to visit. In the summer, the covered bridge attracts the hot and weary, especially the young who jump from the rocks into the Mad River to cool off. Generally, most adults play it cool by using the sandy islands in the river to spread out their towels and then plunge in. Or perhaps picnic along the river.
Three years ago, Joseph Bruno opened Irving Place, A Gargoyle Shop in a former computer catalog store in the Blue Building on Bridge Street. Mary Laulis followed with her Bridge Street Bakery. Together they have transformed a quiet country block with a covered bridge to a lively center of town. It doesn’t hurt that All Creatures Great and Small is across the street—stuffed with everything stuffable.
Outside of Irving Place, the Statue of Liberty stands proudly in front of a picture window defending the lush plants and various other statuary, garden objects, and even a ship’s figurehead on the wall around the corner.
One young tourist stopped at the threshold of Irving Place as if hit by a wall. “Oh,” he whispered. Gingerly, he stepped into the shop among hundreds of gargoyles, angels, statuary, marble sculptures, blue hanging balls, suns, pictures and other assorted marvels. The smile on his face grew as he worked his way around the creatures. He, too, was changed by the magic. Soon after, he came back with his parents.
Stepping into the shop is stepping into Medieval history. As if you were suddenly dropped into the stonemason’s workshop at Notre Dame while it was under construction. You squeeze past wickedly delightful little gargoyles and four-foot high carved columns with marble statues (guess which ones Bruno did himself), plants hanging in the window draped over more creatures, against pictures on walls. Books poke out here and there. Mirrors surprise you. It’s hard not to be enchanted, not to want to own your very own gargoyle. (I know, I came out with one, too.)
Watching customers come out with their treasures is a treat, you never know what will emerge: columns, gigantic monsters, tiny handfuls of angel, a fireplace mantel. But not Bruno’s own work. While handling his creatures, Bruno was bitten by the sculpting bug. Never having taken an art lesson is his life, he decided that he wanted to try sculpting.
Earlier this summer, the public watched as Original Sin emerged from a block of marble in the driveway. Over 400 hours went into the carving, Bruno’s sixteenth in thirteen months. Bruno has discovered he has a talent for sculpture, but he has yet to part with one of his pieces. “Just think, this piece of marble can last for centuries,” he says, “there are not many people sculpting marble anymore. It’s a dying art.” But, clearly, Bruno has talent. Offered thousands of dollars for one of his earlier pieces, he refused as he couldn’t part with it, “I like looking at it here.”
After seeing his friends gargoyles in New York, Bruno decided that what Waitsfield needed was a contrast to the soft and cuddly across the street. That the two would complement each other. He was right. Named after 81 Irving Place in New York, a home for young women that was decorated with gargoyles to ward off evil, Irving Place in Waitsfield has been largely responsible for transforming what was once an average building into an enchanting, lively magnet.
Not that it takes up the entire building, not even the entire block-long Bridge Street. Next door to Irving Place is the Bridge Street Bakery. After feasting your eyes on Medieval fancy, it’s time to relax and feast on freshly baked muffins, breads and cakes, while satisfying your thirst with coffee and tea. Occasionally, there is entertainment as well. The walls are adorned with paintings of local artists. In the back of the building is the studio of artist Sally Sweetland. The Green Mountain Woodshop, makers of wooden furniture is tucked around the other side.
Upstairs, discreetly stashed, is the popular Cheap Thrills new, used and vintage clothing emporium. More than one customer has commented on the wisdom of having the shop upstairs with its entrance just out of sight of the main drag. One anonymous shopper, known for her style, announced that she wouldn’t be caught dead walking into the shop if she had to enter from the street. This way people don’t know where her stylish clothing came from!
Across the street, for those who love and relish the warm and fuzzy feeling, All Creatures Great and Small has rooms of stuffed animals. All sorts of creatures from minute to full-size, bears, gorillas, cows, dolls, raccoons, orcas, if it’s a stuffed toy, it’s here. Gaelic and Bonnie McTigue and their mother Irene have watched over their menagerie for over two decades. Next door, is their Tree-Top Christmas Shop. Inside are handmade and imported ornaments, with the occasional real cat to be found snoozing among the miniature Santas.
In case dinner is on the menu, try the Art Deco RSVP or rather, Richard’s Special Vermont Pizza in the yellow building. If you are ready to relive the 1950s, this place is a must. The funky diner specializes in pizzas with amazing toppings of broccoli and other assorted veggies, from the “normal basic” pizza to the unusual Pope’s Pizza, actually delivered to Pope John Paul II for his flight home on his last trip to the States.
Next building up houses Baked Beads, an emporium of every amazing bead you can think of, glass, baked, clay, strung up, strung down, big, little, hats, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, quantities of beads. Their wares have appeared in many top fashion magazines — in case you are seriously fashion conscience.
From Medieval to ancient, from old to new, from antique to funky 50s, a day spent on Waitsfield’s picturesque, colorful “Left Bank” won’t soon be forgotten.
© 1996 Kitty Werner